Daily Trip Log

Prolog

The San Juan Skyway is a 235-mile loop in southwest Colorado through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery anywhere.

To get ready for the climbing, I trained for months in the hills of Albany (NY) County (which has some surprisingly steep hills). Tim, on the other hand, took the ride fairly casually, counting on his youth and strength. His training was mostly on his flat, short commute to work in Denver.

Before the trip, I plotted elevation profiles for each day using National Geographic TOPO! software. I broke each day into climbs and estimated the length, elevation gain, and grade of each climb. It appeared that Coal Bank Pass between Durango and Silverton would be our greatest challenge. During the trip I had a Garmin Etrex Vista GPS and a Vetta V100 wireless bike computer mounted on the handle bars, so we knew where we were and where we were going and our altitude, not to mention temperature, barometric pressure, average speed, maximum speed, moving time, stopped time, total elevation gain, and other numbers too numerous to list. The elevation profiles and other data shown here come from those instruments. It has been said that I am more concerned about collecting data than riding, but I categorically deny it, for the 137th time.

Tim shunned technology (except for his CD player that supplied a throbbing beat for climbing), but occasionally asked for position and altitude reports, and had a good laugh if I could not give him the precise data he wanted on short notice.

(Distances given below are total riding distances, including detours for rest stops and finding hotels.)
Day 1, Sunday, June 14, 2002
Society Turn (8,711, near Telluride) to Dolores (7,043, Outpost Motel)
9:43 am to 5:20 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		64.1 miles
13.6 mph
4:43
40.7 mph
10,264 feet
2,485 feet

Because Telluride is so expensive, we stayed in Ridgway Saturday night and drove to our starting point near Society Turn on Sunday morning. After some searching, we found a parking place in a field behind a gas station. We started climbing immediately, and Tim began feeling sick. After hurling his steak and eggs breakfast, he felt much better. I was pleased to find the climb to Lizard Head Pass was not difficult. I was breathing heavily, but otherwise the altitude did not seem to affect me. Tim, on the other hand, struggled to the top and collapsed on the ground. He recovered quickly and made some adjustments to his bike so his brakes would no longer rub on the wheels.

After Lizard Head, we cruised 50 miles downhill along the Dolores River, stopping for a great lunch at the Rico Cafe. About 4 miles out of Dolores, rain was threatening and we could hear thunder in the distance. We decided to sprint to the hotel that I had previously marked on my GPS. We sped through town and arrived at the marked location on the outskirts just as the rain was starting. There was no hotel in sight. In fact, there was nothing but a dirt road and empty land. We went to a nearby fire station and were told that we had passed the hotel as we entered town about 1.5 miles back. Tim had seen it, but I had neglected to tell him the name of the hotel we were looking for. I had put too much trust in the location of the hotel that I had found on the internet before I left. We finally arrived at the Outpost Hotel in a steady rain. It turned out to be a delightful place.

That evening in Dolores we experienced smoke from a new fire nearby. This was the only time we saw any smoke from the fires that were raging in Colorado at that time.
Day 2, Monday, June 15, 2002
Dolores (7,043) to Durango (6,532, Wapiti Lodge)
7:41 am to 2:54 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		49.2 miles
11.3 mph
4:20
44.2 mph
8,404 feet
2,663 feet

We got an early start from Dolores and lunched on power bars. There were no major passes on this leg, but some substantial climbs. It was more scenic than I thought it would be.

Tim is now ahead of me on the climbs and is no longer suffering. In one day he has surpassed what took me three months of training to accomplish.

We had reservations at a hostel in Durango, but, again, it was not where it was supposed to be, according to the Internet. Having learned from the Dolores experience, we stopped immediately and called them for directions. It turned out they were six miles south of Durango. That was too far out of town for us, since at that time we were planning to stay in Durango two days and we'd have to ride in and out several times. So, we cancelled the hostel and used the GPS to find nearby hotels. We ended up at the Wapiti Lodge. Reasonably priced and walking distance to the Durango train station.

On Tuesday we stayed in Durango and rode the Durango-Silverton railroad to Silverton and back. We had read in the paper that they were running a water car ahead of the train to wet down the brush beside the tracks and a fire car after the train to put out any fires started by sparks from the train. We couldn't see these cars from the train.

Advice to shade seekers and photographers: Get a seat on the left side of the train.

As we thought about the 50-mile ride from Durango to Silverton we had planned to do in one day, including the feared Coal Bank Pass, Tim had the great idea of breaking it up into two days. Using the GPS we found a hotel in Purgatory and made a reservation. Although the hotel was more expensive than we wanted, this proved to be a very good move.
Day 3, Wednesday, June 17, 2002
Durango (6,532) to Purgatory (8,459, Best Western at Durango Mountain)
10:37 am to 4:11 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		30.4 miles
9.6 mph
3:07
27.7 mph
8,885 feet
2,623 feet

Knowing that we had a short ride, we slept in. It was a steady, beautiful climb to the hotel. We took it slow and easy, trying not to think about the dreaded Coal Bank Pass coming up the next day.

There was an excellent restaurant in the hotel. We sat in the bar eating calamari and playing pool until the restaurant opened. I beat Tim, using liberal rules (some might say cheating). This was our big splurge--making up for the power bar lunches.

Day 4, Thursday, June 18, 2002
Purgatory (6,532) to Silverton (9,300, Prospector Motel)
7:41 am to 1:13 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		21.9 miles
7.5 mph
2:44
44.0 mph
10,926 feet
2,922 feet

We got an early start so we could conquer the monster Coal Bank Pass before it got hot. The morning temperature was 48 degrees, but we were plenty warm on the ascent. As often happens when expectations are high, Coal Bank Pass did not live up to its billing. It was a strenuous climb, but nothing we could not handle. Tim insisted that Lizard Head Pass was much harder. I disagreed, but was relieved when we did conquer the mighty hill.

Molas Pass (or Divide) offered the most spectacular panoramic view of the trip. The drop from there into Silverton was fast. We got to the hotel before our rooms were ready.
Day 5, Friday, June 19, 2002
Silverton (9,300) to Ridgway (6,482, Sunset Motel)
8:21 am to 1:46 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		34.1 miles
11.1 mph
3:04
37.8 mph
11,089 feet
1,852 feet

Red Mountain Pass was the highest point of the trip. The climb was routine by now. The twisting descent into Ouray, through the Uncompagre Gorge was spectacular. We stopped for lunch in Ouray, and had time to soak in the Orvis Hot Springs near Ridgway.
Day 6, Saturday, June 20, 2002
Ridgway (6,482) to Society Turn (8,711)
8:07 am to 12:29 pm

Distance
Average speed
Moving time
Maximum speed
Maximum elevation
Total climbing 		36.4 miles
10.1 mph
3:35
32.3 mph
8,967 feet
3,057 feet

This day snuck up on me. If I had known what was coming, I would have dreaded this day instead of Coal Bank Pass. Although there were no major passes (there is not even a sign at the top on the Dallas Divide), there was total elevation gain from start to finish of more than 2,000 feet and more total climbing than any other day. And the two major climbs were steep and relentless. Since we were anxious to get back to the car, and faced a six-hour drive back to Denver, we didn't stop as much as we had other days. We just kept pushing. I think the altitude plus the four consecutive days of biking were wearing on me. I was dragging.

Epilog

We were very fortunate in the weather, lack of smoke, and absence of any mechanical problems or flat tires. The weather tended to be hot, but rarely oppressive. We drank lots of water and Gatorade mix. Our legs and lungs held up, which was never a question for Tim, but I had some doubts about myself. Since none of the rides were particularly long, and we usually got an early start, we were able to ride at a leisurely pace and take long breaks.

The climbs were tough, but very satisfying. Since we had elevation profiles prepared before the trip, and an altimeter on the GPS unit, we knew what to expect. We coined a new unit of climbing, the "kilofoot." Sometimes during a climb it was pronounced "killer-foot" as in "only 2 more killer feet to climb today."

Subjectively, we felt that going the direction we did (counterclockwise) was better than the reverse. We thought we would have had steeper climbs on Coal Bank, Molas, and Red Mountain if we had gone the other way. On the other hand, we definitely had steeper climbs the last day than we would have going clockwise.

The trip surpassed our expectations. Tim and I had some great talks and good laughs. The only negative I would mention is the traffic. Even though tourism was down because of the fires, there were many cars, trucks, campers and motorcycles, and there was little or no shoulder for most of the trip. There was rarely a chance to ride side by side and talk. Almost all drivers were courteous and drove safely. The exceptions were annoying, but fortunately few.